Deep Dive: Caravan Stone Guard Guide
Complete Guide to Caravan Stone Guards
Gravel pinging off the front of your van is more than a nuisance, it is damage waiting to happen. A caravan stone guard is a simple shield that saves front windows, paint, gas fittings, and hoses from flying debris. This guide explains the purpose of stone guards, the types available, how the NCE Stoneguard is designed for Australian roads, how to measure and choose, and the exact steps to install, maintain, and troubleshoot your setup.
What a stone guard does
When you tow, tyres flick stones and debris toward the caravan. A stone guard sits forward of the van’s front panel and window, catches the impact, and sends the debris down to the road. This reduces chips, cracks, punctures, and costly repairs. It also preserves resale value, because front end damage is the first thing buyers notice.
Why it matters in Australia
Local conditions are harsh. Country highways, resealed bitumen, outback tracks, and beach access roads all carry loose aggregate. Road trains and oncoming traffic can throw stones at speed. On long trips, small chips turn into corrosion. A guard is a light, low cost way to avoid cracked acrylic windows, damaged regulators, punctured hoses, and dented checkerplate.
Stone guard types, pros and cons
Mesh A-frame guard
A rigid frame with a tensioned mesh panel, mounted on the A-frame and angled slightly downward. It is the most common style, light, effective, and affordable.
Full span barrier between tow vehicle and van
A custom barrier that blocks debris before it reaches the A-frame. It is very effective, though heavier and usually more expensive. It can add bulk and requires careful setup to avoid drag.
Rigid front armour (checkerplate or vinyl)
Permanent panel protection that resists chips and scrapes. It does not stop ricochets back to the tow vehicle and adds weight. Best as a complement, not a replacement, for a mesh guard.
| Type | Pros | Cons | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mesh A-frame guard | Light, affordable, easy DIY fit, effective front protection | Covers the front primarily, less underbody protection | Most travellers on mixed sealed and gravel roads |
| Full span barrier | Blocks debris between vehicle and van, excellent coverage | Custom fit, heavier, may add drag if poorly set up | Frequent remote travel on rough roads |
| Rigid armour | Tough face for the lower front panel, looks tidy | Added weight, does not stop bounce back | As a complement to a mesh guard |
NCE Stoneguard, features and benefits
The NCE Stoneguard is built for Australian roads. It combines ease of fitment with solid protection and thoughtful details that make life simpler on tour.
Adjustable frame
Designed to suit common A-frame widths and front window heights, so most vans fit without custom work. The adjustment range makes selection straightforward.
Snap lock convenience
Snap lock style fittings make removal and refit quick for cleaning or storage, less time with spanners, more time on the road.
Light yet durable
Strong frame with quality mesh, balanced for daily travel. Easy to handle when you want it off, tough enough for corrugations.
Nice touch, a drip rail helps reduce water ingress around the front window on angled panels. Cheaper guards often skip this detail.
Measure and choose
Measure across your intended mounting points on the A-frame, then measure height to cover the vulnerable front area. Confirm clearance around the handbrake, chains, wiring, and the jockey wheel path. Compare your dimensions to the guard specification, making sure you are not at the extreme ends of the adjustment range.
| Item | What to confirm | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| A-frame width | Measure centre to centre at mounting points | Ensures brackets sit square and the frame spans correctly |
| Protection height | Cover lower panel and front window area | Stops direct strikes to the most vulnerable parts |
| Clearances | Handbrake throw, chains, plugs, jockey wheel arc | Keeps all coupling gear free to operate |
| Weight and finish | Light enough for handling, powder coat quality | Easy removal, corrosion resistance |
| Accessories | Lower flaps, side wings, drip rail | Improves debris deflection and water management |
Installation, step by step
Most mesh guards are DIY friendly. The outline below mirrors the process recommended for common A-frame guards.
| Step | What to do | Why it helps |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Dry fit and mark | Hold brackets on the A-frame, position the frame, check handbrake, chains, wiring, and jockey wheel clearances. Mark holes. | Avoids surprises and ensures free movement of coupling gear |
| 2. Mount brackets | Drill pilot holes if required, fit with supplied hardware. Tighten evenly. Use thread locker if the instructions specify it. | Secure base for the frame on corrugations |
| 3. Assemble frame | Build on a flat surface. Fit end caps and trims now so you are not working around them later. | Square, rattle free assembly |
| 4. Fit the mesh | Attach from centre outwards to keep tension even. The mesh should sit smooth without waves. | Reduces slap at speed and improves impact absorption |
| 5. Set angle | Mount the frame and angle slightly downward so debris deflects to the road, not up toward the tow vehicle. | Improves safety and reduces ricochet |
| 6. Final torque | Tighten all fasteners, confirm lighting and number plate visibility, and test handbrake and jockey wheel again. | Compliance and safe operation |
| 7. Recheck after drive | After your first long run, recheck fasteners and mesh tension. New hardware settles. | Prevents loosening on rough roads |
Workshop option, if you prefer a professional fit, a caravan workshop can install quickly and provide a torque sheet for your records.
Maintenance and care
Simple routine
- Rinse mesh and frame after dusty runs.
- Recheck fasteners after corrugations, retension mesh if needed.
- Touch up coating chips to stop corrosion.
- Keep snap locks and hinges clean so they do not jam.
Seasonal once over
- Inspect mesh edges for wear points.
- Check bracket contact points and add thin rubber isolators if rub marks appear.
- Confirm angle and coverage after any accessory changes up front.
Troubleshooting
- Mesh slap at speed, increase tension evenly and confirm the frame is not touching bodywork. Add a thin protector strip if needed.
- Fasteners loosening, re-torque and use nyloc nuts or thread locker as specified.
- Debris under the guard, check the downward angle and consider lower flaps if compatible.
- Jockey wheel or handbrake fouling, shift bracket positions within tolerances or use alternate holes per the instructions.
FAQs
Is a caravan stone guard worth it?
Yes. One cracked front window or damaged regulator can cost more than a guard. It is cheap insurance on long trips and helps preserve resale value.
How do I know if the NCE Stoneguard fits my caravan?
Measure your A-frame width and the height needed to cover the front panel and window, then compare to the specification. The adjustable frame is designed to suit common setups. If unsure, send measurements and a front photo before you buy.
Does a stone guard affect fuel use?
Mesh guards are light with a small profile, so impact is minimal. Full span barriers can add drag if not set up correctly.
Can I install it myself?
Most owners can install a mesh guard with basic tools. Follow the steps above, then recheck tension and torque after your first drive.
What maintenance is needed?
Rinse dirt and grit, recheck fasteners after rough roads, touch up coating chips, keep latches clean, and retension mesh if you hear slap.